By ʻAulani Wilhelm

The smell of bacon and butter greeted me this morning as I emerged from the makeshift cabin that we each are extremely fortunate to call home when aboard Hōkūleʻa. Those on the 6-to-10 watch were at the sweep adeptly steering Hōkūleʻa in a SSW direction, guided by Mark Ellis, one of the navigators on board.

He estimated that by that time, we had traveled approximately 125 miles over night since leaving port in Balboa. I had been on the earlier 10-to-2 watch crew, lucky to steer during a clear, star filled night with both the north star at our stern and the half full moon to our port side to guide us through most of our shift. This crew was steering during the day, with squirrely clouds, inconsistent wind, and no land to guide their way. They were relying on a rising sun and setting moon, neither of which are the most accurate indicators as they move overhead. When I started my watch, the sun was rising, the clouds kept changing and the wind kept shifting. Steering was much trickier than it had been the night before with a reliable northern star.

The deep blue-green waters of Panama continue to carry us toward Malpelo, a tiny volcanic island off shore of Columbia which we hope to reach in 2 days. We are privileged to be sailing in a geography referred to as the Eastern Tropical Pacific Seascape (ETPS) covering 750,000 square miles across the marine domains of 4 countries, Costa Rica, Panama, Columbia, and Ecuador.

The seascape links a network of marine managed areas including protected area, fisheries management areas, important migratory routes for threatened and endangered species like the Blue Whale, and critical nesting and breeding areas for seabirds and turtles, including the critically endangered leatherback. The pelagic waters between these areas are some of the world’s best tuna grounds. Simply put, this seascape is one of the most biologically rich and diverse places on the planet, driven by the convergence of unique underwater mountain chains and nutrient rich, cold water from the Southern Ocean delivered by the Humboldt current.

It is for these reasons, and many more, that ETPS is also home to a close cluster of four global marine treasures –Cocos Island National Park (Costa Rica), Coiba National Park (Panama), Malpelo Flora and Fauna Sanctuary (Columbia), and the Galapagos Islands (Ecuador) – recognized by the United Nations’ Education, Science and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) as World Heritage sites.

Many of our Mālama Honua partners like National Geographic, Mission Blue, and Conservation International work in this region to deliver ground breaking science, effective models of conservation, and visibility to the importance of protecting these globally important waters from over-exploitation and climate change.

Despite all the amazing things that make this one of the world’s most extraordinary and more resilient parts of our global oceans, it faces significant challenges. Last night as we sailed, Nainoa asked me, “What are the main challenges facing this place? What are the lessons
that can help the rest of the world navigate?”

My first instinct was to rattle off the list of conservation challenges – illegal, unreported and unregulated fishing; climate change; pollution etc. – the many things plaguing all of our oceans.

But those aren’t the problems, they are the symptoms of deeper issues we face… symptoms of human beings increasingly becoming separated from nature, of short-term thinking, of privileging economic gain over ecological and human health which leave a vastly inequitable reality and future both people and the planet.

Luckily, ETPS has a fighting chance more than most places of buffering the many assaults our oceans face, thanks to its natural abundance and the many protections and other conservation efforts already underway. For example, last fall the presidents of Columbia, Costa Rica and
Ecuador together committed to expand the commitments to this special area, including the commitment to expand, create or deepen protections within their respective marine parks. (Read more about this incredible commitment here: Conservation International Blog)

Why did they do it? Because they each understood that ocean conservation isn’t only about protecting species, it’s about ensuring the future economic well-being and health for their people. These actions make oceans part of national development approaches that will help feed and improve the livelihoods of millions of their citizens. It is this kind of leadership and shared understanding about the importance of protecting our oceans that is required if we are to
change course toward reversing the current trend of decline.

That’s what this tiny canoe and the extraordinary community of people and organizations it has encountered along this voyage are trying to do – connect and grow a global community of people who each, in their own walks of life, will make better decisions big and small, on behalf
of both people and nature.

The winds have been challenging today – we have had to adjust our course many times to travel downwind and remain focused on our destination. These lessons from sailing hold true for protecting our oceans. The first step, however, is being clear about our destination.

ʻAulani is a crewmember and Senior Vice-President for Oceans at Conservation International

Hōkūle‘a Homecoming – Save the Date

Sign up for updates and be the first to know as we continue to detail homecoming festivities during the week of Hōkūleʻa’s homecoming
on June 17, 2017!

Sign Up For Updates