Crew Blog | Suzette Hauʻoli Smith Gurtler: Five Minutes Before a Huli

This is a moment in time onboard Hōkūleʻa about five minutes before the change of one particular four-hour watch.  Most of the time it is smooth sailing, and when there is action, it happens all at once.  Some of this is written in kaona (deeper meanings), some in nautical terms, and the rest as dialogues exchanged between crew and in my mind.

IMG_5067I stand in my Aikau surf stance on the aft deck, assessing the priority at this moment with my watch crews hands firmly grasped around Kawainui.

IMG_5070The jib is luffing. Did the wind just shift or is it driver error?

Its a ten degree right shift, we are getting headed.  Drive down to fill the sails, we are still on a close hauled point of sail, itʻs just the wind shifting to the right.  Turn the bows to starboard, yes, yes, pull the hoe to port.”  “Did you hear that exhale?” 

I know that sound! 

Over there! Get your camera.”  “Hows that multilayered cloud bank on the horizon?

IMG_5182

Akua colored it vertically with shifty grey/black clouds splattered over a tangerineorange/neon blue background with a magenta tinge around the tops.  The social watch is going to steer right into it and I will be all cozy reading my book by then.

Aunty, did you see my harness?”  “No, I did not, did you hang it up?

IMG_4807

Hanapaa!  Port side! Ok, Ok, we are steering into the wind, now. Stop drooling bruddah, Cap didnt pull it on deck yet!”  “What you think, fish head soup tonight?

IMG_5208

Hauoli, its time to huli!


Learn more about our crewmembers and the Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage. Visit us and join our global movement towards a more sustainable Island Earth.

Continue Reading

Update | November 29, 2014

Aloha mai kākou! This Dennis Chun, crewmember onboard the sailing vessel Hikianalia that is sailing along with Hōkūleʻa as we go around the world. Here we are right now in Aotearoa at a place called Aurere. Aurere is the home of Hector Busby who built the Maori voyaging canoe Te Aurere. Right now I am sitting in this really cool star compass that he built with various points along the horizon with a chair that he put in the middle that spins around the various points on the horizon. Also in the background we have the Kupe Waka Center that he is building to train future Polynesian navigators or Pacific Island navigators in the art of wayfinding. So stayed tuned for further information about this fantastic place and beautiful area. Stayed tuned at Hokulea.com. Aloha!


Continue to follow the Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage by visiting us online and joining our global movement towards a more sustainable Island Earth.

Continue Reading

Hokianga: Māori Roots

One of the chief servant of Te Roroa, Jason Fox says that “This community is called Te Roroa. It’s a combination of about six Marae – six communities and their affiliated family groupings. They come together under a single umbrella in order to look after pretty much from the Hokianga, about an hour north, to down to Te Wairoa river which is about an hour south.”

While the crew visited Hokianga on the West Coast of the North Island of Aotearoa, they traveled up uka. There the crew visited Tane Mahuta, Aotearoa’s largest known living kauri tree who is also considered the Lord of the Forest. According to Māori culture, all living creatures of the forest are considered his descendants.

“I think it’s important to make the stops that we did in getting here to this particular place because it really reminds us of how connected we can be and they are to their place. And to hear the significance of those different places – whether it’s the names of their mauna, the names of their beaches, and those stories that relate to each one of those places, and then bringing it right back here to their Kauri, to their nāhele, and really how that connects them to every place that we have gone. Really, they continue to Mālama Honua in their sense here.” says pwo navigator Chadd ʻŌnohi Paishon.

“What we got here on behind us is the remnants of the last largest Kauri forest on the planet. And as the iwi here, our principle responsibility is to look after what we call the domain of Tane Mahuta, or the god of the forest. The wellness of Kauri is also the wellness of our community, and we have to make sure that we continue to elevate that” says Fox.

“Knowing that each one of these places that we get to go, hold significance for those people who come from those places, and that we get to experience them and those places first hand from them, that’s special.” says Paishon.

Crew Blog | Pomai Bertelmann: Time for a Cool Change

With each mile of blue ocean that has passed under her hulls, we consciously create a repository in our DNA of the stories, places and people who have touched and changed our lives. Stepping off the deck and onto shore is sobering and quite exhilarating. Aotearoa, our destination has been in the grand design since voyaging canoes started to traverse the oceans eons ago. Twenty-nine years ago our makua sailed Hōkūleʻa to these shores becoming the lashing that would bind cultures and people. This bridge would empower future generations to work in a spiritual and physically conscious way, reenergizing the mauli in the Pacific and creating a generation of warriors and leaders whose course of life would be led by traditional values, wisdom and knowing.

IMG_6321

Warm hands inter lock as we gather for our last karakia (pule) as the crew who has accompanied Hōkūleʻa and Hikianalia to Aotearoa. We grace her into the loving hands of “the uncles”, the men who knew Hōkūleʻa before, during, and after her birth. It is their feats of courage, sacrifice and belief in a better life for their descendants that make us ‘Ohana Wa’a, the canoe family. They are the cornerstone of our essence and the reason why this voyage, Malama Honua is so vital. The words of one of our family anthems fill my head:

Time for, a cool change,
I know that its time for a cool change.
And now that my life is so prearranged
I know that its time for a cool change. 

Each of them represent the men, women and families who birthed, carried out and sustained the wa’a movement. Their legacy precedes them – their stories reveal them – but the gold are the skills that they possess that are breathed into a new generation. It will take time for us to morph into their knowing but we are humbled that we are can learn from them.

IMG_4909

The karakia (pule) is offered and goodbyes are said. How do we say goodbye to those who have been our life line for the past six weeks? How do you leave the island home that has sustained you over a thousand plus miles effortlessly? The answer lies in our Koumatua, ‘anakala Joe Everette.

Uncle takes us on a huaka’i (journey) to Hokianaga where we stand within two feet of the anchor of the great navigator Kupe. We are introduced to the nature and the feats of this great man by oral recitation from a descendant of Hokianga. He knows this land like the back of his hand and Kupe’s experiences like they were his own. He shares that the heights of the massive sand dunes that almost block out the horizon encases Kupe’s wa’a who till this day is buried under years of the magic dust that has preserved it.

After this mind blowing experience Uncle Joe then takes us to the Waipoua Forest reserve. This is home for the 3,000 year old Te Matua Nahere and the 2,000 year old Tane Mahuta and the Four Sisters. These kauri giants bring us back to the reality of why we do wa’a. These trees, like the mighty koa and the canopy that he is protector of at home, are the cores of our being. They are the cloud makers. They are the rain catchers. They are the water cycle. Kupe traversed this forest looking for abundant supplies of food, medicine, fire and shelter that would sustain his ‘Ohana Wa’a. Even today, every wa’a navigator and captain seeks out these same supports for his canoe family upon landfall.

Our necks fall back and become pained as we strain to hold it in place to take in the full view of this giant. This is a sacrifice worthy of the sacredness of this visit. We harmonize our energies with that of Tane Mahuta as we offer him the Wai a Ke Akua from the portal of Waiau on our majestic Maunakea. In one breath we are reminded that we are kanaka honua, men of the land and that there is a point after our time on the ocean when we must return home. These reminders, the anchor of Kupe, the dunes that shroud his waka, the mighty Kauri and her understory – help us to rejoin our pili to the ‘āina once again. How great the wisdom of our kupuna to create a process of navigation and way finding on land, our means of entering back into the world that is truly ours. Again, our anthem rings true once more:

Now I was born in the sign of water,
And its there that I feel my best,
the Albatross and the whales they are my brothers.
It’s kind of a special feeling, when you’re out on the sea alone,
staring at the full moon like a lover.

These words will continue to ring true each time we sing them. They are a magnet calling us back into the life that we lead on the ocean for a specific moment in time. But for now we return to our families and loved one’s fully conscious of our transformation back from the sea.

Hōkūleʻa, wa’a aloha e, holo i ka Moananuiakea e.
Hōkūleʻa wa’a aloha, malama honua i ka ‘oli. 

IMG_4459

Continue Reading

Mālama Honua: ʻOhana Hōkūleʻa, Episode 4

“You’re looking at a voyage that would take Hōkūleʻa from Hawaiʻi for three years. You’d be sailing for at least 45,000 nautical miles. It would be by far the most dangerous thing we would ever consider doing as a voyaging family. The risks are huge. But on the other side, the possibilities are enormous…We’re not going to change the world; we’re going to build a network of people around the Earth who are going to change it. And our job is to help them be successful.”

– Nainoa Thompson

ARVE error: Mode: lazyload not available (ARVE Pro not active?), switching to normal mode

Episode 4

In our final episode, Hōkūleʻa completes her journey through Polynesia and prepares to leave the Pacific for the first time ever. She now carries the hope and lessons offered by the many communities visited to date. From cutting-edge, award winning sustainability projects taking place right here in Polynesia to hosting the United Nations Secretary General onboard and having recording artists premiering new hits to sing her praises, Hōkūleʻa has already started to gather and spread messages of mālama honua. Her journey to reconnect throughout Polyneisa and gather this ‘Ohana Hōkūleʻa to Mālma Honua ends with a homecoming 29 years in the making in Waitangi Bay, Aotearoa. Join us as Hōkūleʻa continues making history.

About the Series

Nearly 40 years ago, the founders of the Polynesian Voyaging Society dreamed of rebuilding a double-hulled canoe similar to those of our ancestors. What began as an effort to disprove critics who doubted Polynesians’ ability to sail purposefully and settle their vast nation unaided by navigational instruments has grown into a cultural reawakening, a new generation of leaders, and a living commitment to sustainability.

Hōkūleʻa originally sailed to rediscover and then to reconnect. Now she’s circling the globe carrying a message of Mālama Honua, or caring for Our Island Earth, as we struggle with the degradation of our land and oceans with the firm belief that our ancient wisdom will inspire contemporary solutions.

Join in this movement as we sail through the past, and venture into new waters of relationships and change!

Mālama Honua: ʻOhana Hōkūleʻa is a collaboration between the Polynesian Voyaging Society, ʻŌiwi TV, and Hawaii News Now.

Opua School Visit

While Hōkūleʻa and Hikianalia were in Opua Harbor, some of the crewmembers took the time to visit the local community and engage with people who are doing their part to Mālama Honua. One place in particular is Opua School, where the students shared all of the things they are actively doing to take care of our island Earth.

“They shared with us the, the other thing about water bottles and how they have too many water bottles here and you know, what can we do to eliminate that plastic? So the kids came up with a water bottle filling station. “ said crewmember Mark Ellis.

Along with this water station is a greenhouse made of recycled plastic, a garden and farm with chickens that produce eggs for eating, and a musical station made of pots and pans. All of these projects were inspired and executed by the student themselves.

Simon McGowan, the Principal of Opua School says that, “that’s just now typical of the sorts of proactive behavior that the students engage in because they are so inspired, and they want to make a difference.”

As the students presented what they do to mālama honua, the crewmembers shared their similar experiences and goals on the Worldwide Voyage; an engaging opportunity that will be remembered and cherished.

“To see people from Hawaiʻi, doing things that they’ve heard about, and care about…and just to have those adults inspiring them, passing the message on, and giving them some (as we say) pakipaki, celebrating what they are doing, will keep them going, you know?” said McGowan.

Director for the Mālama Honua Learning Center, Miki Tomita says that, “that is the inspiration, is some how figuring out a way so that students and learners of all ages can really begin to understand that we are all connected and that everyone is working to help create positive change. And in every, in every child’s smile, you see that inspiration.  And it’s beautiful, and we got to keep voyaging, so that we can keep seeing that and inspiring that with the canoes.”

Continue Reading

Update | November 23, 2014

Aloha! This is Saki Uchida, watch captain on Hikianalia. We are here in Whangarei and are conducting community outreach such as canoe tours, navigation teaching, aloha ʻāina flags, and sharing our message of mālama honua. It has been really fun and exciting to have the people who are supporting us and who are interested in mālama honua – to take care of our Earth. Mahalo nui for listing, and please join us and share how you mālama honua at Hokulea.com. Aloha!

Continue Reading