Update | December 4, 2014

Aloha mai kākou! It is December 4th here in Aotearoa, and December 3rd back home in Hawaiʻi. We just left Whangarei Harbor at about 6am this morning and now heading over to Auckland. We just opened sails a few hours ago, and the weather today is quite chilly. As you can see, we all have our heavier jackets on along with our boots and beanies. Thank you for tuning in, and we want to make sure we get all your questions answered, and feel free to share how you malama honua at Hokulea.com Aloha!

Aloha mai kākou! ʻO Kaʻohinani koʻu inoa. Ua haʻalele mākou mai Whangarei i kēia kakahiaka. ʻO kēia ka lā ʻehā o Kēkēmapa ma Aotearoa. No laila, ʻo ka lā ʻekolu o Kēkēmapa no ʻoukou ma Hawaiʻi. ʻAno anuanu loa kēia manawa. Hiki ke ʻike aia mākou i loko o nā lakeke, nā kāmaʻa nui. Ke holokai nei mākou i Auckland. E hōʻea ana mākou ma kahi o ka Pōʻaono. No laila, ʻekolu ai ʻole ʻehā mau lā e holokai i Auckland. Mahalo nui no ka hahai ʻana iā mākou. E ʻoluʻolu, e nīnau i nā mea likeʻole ma Hokulea.com a me ʻe ʻoluʻolu, e kaʻanalike i kou mau moʻolelo i ka mālama ʻana i ka honua nei. Mahalo a hui hou.


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Update | December 2, 2014

Aloha! I’m Hauʻoli Smith Gurtler, and I am the first mate on Hōkūleʻa. We are here in Whangarei, Aotearoa on our last day of our educational tours. We’ve had three schools today that have been fabulous. The weather today is awesome. We are leaving on Thursday (Wednesday Hawaiʻi Standard Time) to go to Auckland. We’ve had about 600 kids come through since we’ve been here in Whangarei. Everything has just been so amazing. The kids have been so supportive. So keep track of our Mālama Honua Worldwide Voyage on Hokulea.com. Aloha!


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Crew Blog | Kuʻulei Bezilla: Visiting Aurere

Yesterday the crew packed up around 8am and traveled to Aurere to visit Uncle Hector Busby and to check out the Kupe Learning Center as well as his renowned star compass. All of the crewmembers were excited to see the star compass, though perhaps none so much as ‘Anakala Kālepa Baybayan, who is excited to look at ways to implement what Uncle Hector has done in Hawai’i.

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The crew also checked out the beach, Tokerau and se the mountain Puketu, which is the mountain of Ngati Ruawahia. On the beach, we could see the evidence of the abundant sea life in the area through the diverse collection of shells on the sand.

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In between checking out the star compass and visiting the beach, some crewmembers did some sanding work on Te Aurere while others enjoyed a sit down talk story with Uncle Hector himself.

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In the afternoon, the crew was welcomed by an amazing feast by the ‘ohana Brown in Aurere. One of their sons, Haimoana Brown, will be sailing with us to Auckland on Hikianalia.

The next day, the crew spent time at 90 Mile Beach and helped to gather clams for kai. It was amazing to see how easily accessible the calms were and how abundant they were as well! Haimona is from this area up North and says that this (clam gathering) is something normal that he has been doing, and continues to do, since he was a young boy.

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After gathering the kai, we ate lunch up a creek off of 90 Mile Beach. Shortly after, we went to Cape Reinga. Although it was a short stop (about 30 mins max), we were all grateful to have had the experience to see two oceans meet up as one.

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After our stop at Cape Reinga, the crew had a nice dinner and relaxing evening with our local hosts at the Wairiki hot pools. All of the crew really enjoyed this experience of natural thermal pools with different temperatures and minerals to help ease any aches and muscle pains.

The crew has returned to Whangarei and is ready for a great start of another educational outreach week!


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Crew Blog | Alvin Parker: A Memorable Experience

Aloha from Whangarei,

We are currently moored at Whangarei Port where much excitement has been spurred by the presence of Hōkūle’a and Hikianalia. Hundreds of visitors have attended the star compass demonstration as taught by master navigators Chad Baybayan and Chadd Paishon.

Visitation on the Hōkūle’a and Hikianalia has been consistent and at times overwhelming. However, the “Uncles” Buddy McGuire and Gordon Piʻianaiʻa have used their enormous wealth of knowledge and experience as it pertains to the operation and functioning of Hōkūle’a to bring life and great laughter to the whole experience.

Seasoned crew members, Billy Richards, Dennis Chun and Captain Mike Taylor handled the group tours on the Hikianalia with the skill of the master sailors that they are, thrilling the young visitors with their “ready on the halyards, ready on the sheets, pull” sail demonstrations. You could see how this combination of teachers produced a memorable experience for all.

The final section of our three station visitation cycle includes having each visitor render their vision of what a world filled with peace would resemble.  This final component was led by Mr. Matt Kanemoto, agriculture teacher at Kahuku High School and cook on the Hikianalia and Dr. Martina Kamaka, Medical Officer on Hōkūleʻa.

We will be leaving Whangarei early Thursday morning. Until then a hui hou!


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Stories of Place | Tāne Mahuta

Aloha! This is Pomai Bertelmann, and I am crewmember onboard Hōkūleʻa for the Worldwide Voyage. Today, the ʻohana (family) is going to Hokianga on the west side of this large island of Aotearoa where we will be checking out a very special feature – Tāne Mahuta. We are in the Waipoua Forest Reserve. This forest reserve is the home of the largest tract of native and intact forests in the North Island of Aotearoa. Tāne Mahuta is the largest kauri tree that lives here in this forest. What I am particularly overwhelmed with by this ecosystem is that it is very much thriving because of these overgrowth forests. This place has the ability to sustain itself. Mālama Honua is not just about the canoe traveling around the world. Mālama Honua is how we have the ability to thrive if we work together.


How do you mālama honua (care for our Island Earth)? This is the question we ask when we arrive in each port, where crewmembers meet and interact with local communities. The resulting “Stories of Place” highlight local solutions that can be applied to global problems. We invite you to gather solutions from your community and share your Story of Place with us!

Crew Blog | Kaʻohinani Kamalu: Learning from Legends

It’s just been another beautiful day down here in Whangarei.  Despite all of the cold and wet weather that we’ve encountered today, the community has continued to bring its warmth and kindness to our ʻohana waʻa.  A few of the middle-school aged students from here in Whangarei were able to visit both the Hōkūleʻa and Hikianalia today with curious minds, loads of questions, and school uniforms consisting of shorts and t-shirts.  Meanwhile the crews of Hōkūleʻa and Hikianalia were completely dressed head-to-toe in their foul weather gear.  Being able to watch Uncle “Buddy” McGuire interact with the students about how to use the hoe for steering the waʻa was such an amazing experience. This individual has been voyaging with Hōkūleʻa for decades.  The wealth of knowledge that Uncle Buddy possesses about the wa’a and its progression through history is amazing.  Many of the visiting students were actually quite familiar with solar technology and were able to point out quickly some of the panels on the back of each wa’a.  After enjoying each other’s company, the students left and returned to school while the crews started on lunch.  I’ll have to admit that I somehow still managed to get hungry again after eating a magnificent Thanksgiving feast the evening before.  I hope that everyone at home in Hawai`i is enjoying their Thanksgiving weekend with friends and ‘ohana.  All of us in Aotearoa wish you folks a Happy Thanksgiving. Mālama Pono!


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Crew Blog | Evan Rapoport: Converting Luck

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Just ahead of us stood dozens of large Maori who pounded their bare chests, summoning blood until their skin glowed red. The cold gray skies and brisk ocean winds made our situation feel more grave. The whites of the angry men’s eyes doubled in size as they bulged. Tongues shot down to their chins. Weapons flashed with blinding speed as everyone jumped in unison. Powerful screams hit us with the force of a hurricane. We were fortunate that this “haka”, a traditional Maori war cry, was not to precede a battle, but to welcome us as friends and respected voyagers.

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Life is full of chance events. Sometimes they even determine our future more than our own careful planning. We call this “luck”. If something happens completely outside of your control, then we call that subset “dumb luck”.

But when you convert dumb luck into something valuable, you’re demonstrating a skill; and, that takes practice. When you position yourself so that “lucky” things seem to happen around you more frequently than chance predicts, then that is most certainly not luck at all. Let me explain the highly improbable yet fortunate events over the past year of my life.

Twelve months before I met the Maori in New Zealand, I set out on my standup paddle board on a hot sunny day into the blue-green tropical waters of Hawaii, claiming a few hours alone to clear my mind. Leaving the long white sandy beach behind me, I suppose now that I was paddling in the general direction of California, more than 2,500 miles away. But nothing was farther from my mind than 60-80 hour work weeks in Silicon Valley. And yet, my adventure with Google[x] was about to begin with a canoe, anchored just a mile away down the beach.

Anyone from Hawaii can tell you the story of Hōkūleʻa, the famous Polynesian voyaging canoe that sailed to Tahiti in 1976 using only the stars, currents, and birds as her guide. She helped prove the theory of Polynesians as master navigators who regularly traversed the vast Pacific Ocean like a highway system, millennia before Columbus stumbled into the “New World”. Every student in Hawaii can explain Hōkūleʻa’s critical role in sparking the Hawaiian cultural renaissance, restoring pride and bringing back a people and language from the brink of extinction. Everyone feels her tremendous “mana”; a spiritual energy that draws you to her for reasons beyond explanation.

As I was paddling that afternoon, I noticed crowds gathering on the shore. When a nearby paddler told me it was a ceremony for Hōkūleʻa, I instinctively caught the next wave and paddled straight towards the inspirational canoe. Many others were doing the same thing.

It was pure dumb luck for me that Hōkūleʻa happened to be anchored on that exact beach at that exact time. An hour later she set sail along the coast, far out of my site. Had I been there an hour later, or had I headed home sooner, none of the following events would have happened. But just as potential energy inevitably and increasingly converts to kinetic energy when an object falls, this moment of my story is where the power of dumb luck is eclipsed by focus, preparation, and a series of other “chance” events.

This is when I saw an opportunity and made something happen.

Of course I had no idea WHAT might happen if I paddled over to Hōkūleʻa and sat in the water next to her for an hour while the crew prepared for departure. Usually nothing noteworthy happens when you position yourself in the middle of the action. I “met” Bill Gates once, which is to say that I almost knocked into him at the Four Seasons on Lanai. I sat at a nearby table in the restaurant for the next thirty minutes, hoping for some way to speak with him without annoying his family during lunch. But nothing happened and I eventually moped back to my room. I dreamt of alternative plot lines for my life that began with a chance encounter with the world’s wealthiest man.

So, it was not “purely” dumb luck when someone on Hōkūleʻa yelled out my name as I sat on my standup paddle board. A former colleague was on board, helping Hōkūleʻa as a volunteer. We chatted briefly and followed up by email. A month later I met the Polynesian Voyaging Society (PVS) staff to discuss using Google Maps and Street View for their upcoming circumnavigation of the Earth with Hōkūleʻa and Hikianalia.

This is where worlds collide in a beautiful way…

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Google[x] is the division within Google responsible for “moonshots”, which are in the “the gray area between audacious projects and pure science fiction”. The term refers to President Kennedy’s “we choose the moon” speech in 1962 when he declares the United States would place a man on the moon by the end of the decade, even though they did not yet know how to do so. From self-driving cars to atmospheric balloons providing Internet access to nanoparticles that detect cancer, Google[x] dreams of making impossible things a reality for the betterment of mankind.

There’s a Google[x] video that explains “Moonshot Thinking” in which a Google[x] engineer, Rich DeVaul, explains how this type of thinking has been critical in the history of humanity and responsible for our greatest achievements. “Think about the Polynesian islander on the dug out canoe, deciding one day they were going to go ‘that way’” Rich states as he points his hand to a distant point off camera. “No one had ever been that way before, no one even knew if there was anything that way before. It was amazing and it changed the world.”

So during the meeting with PVS, someone showed me this video and asked me to contact Rich. I got “chicken skin” from this exciting coincidence. What were the odds of a Google[x] engineer referencing Polynesian voyaging?

I spent an hour writing a short email to Rich. We connected and discussed our mutual interest in Hawaiian culture. Magical things started to happen. Eventually the PVS crew came to California to visit my team at Google Maps. We also stopped at Google[x], where legendary Hawaiian navigator Nainoa Thompson shared the story of Hōkūleʻa and inspired the audience with Hawaii’s own moonshot thinking. World-renowned scientists and engineers asked question after question with curiosity and the sense of wonder that makes children so endearing.

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Several months later, a position on Rich’s team in Google[x] opened up for a new project he was starting (unrelated to anything I’m discussing here). I jumped at the opportunity to work with someone as accomplished and inspiring as Rich. Independently, I continued to volunteer my personal time helping PVS best use Google’s products to achieve their goals of communicating the voyage to a global audience. I’ve been incredibly fortunate to join their crew and meet up with them in New Zealand, where I took part in the Maori welcoming ceremony.

Reflecting on the events of the past year, this all still sounds like fiction to me. Too good to be true. So many chance events. So much luck. So much joy. You couldn’t engineer something like this. Or could you?

It didn’t have to unfold this way. Nothing would have occurred if I didn’t paddle across the bay towards Hōkūleʻa to put myself in the middle of the action. And while these events lead me to Google[x] and Hōkūleʻa, I can imagine an infinite number of alternative plot lines that would have seemed equally improbable that day. Some good. Some bad. Maybe one in which I ended up sailing to Samoa and working with a Nobel Prize winner. Or another in which I nearly drown and get fired from my job. Those sound crazy, but only because they didn’t happen.

I believe that you can create your own “luck”. You need to be observant, willing to take some risks, and comfortable with wearing your heart on your sleeve. Put things out into the universe and ultimately something incredible will occur. And when it does, you should be grateful that dumb luck gave you that moment, but you’ll have yourself to thank for all that follows.

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Crew Blog | Kaipo Kīʻaha: Home Away from Home

It was an unusually sweltering night in Whangarei, when we gathered together around our captains, Bruce Blankenfeld and Kālepa Baybayan.  They soon informed us that a family from Hawaiʻi – Sidney Quintal and Tara Chanel – wanted to host us at their home.

After a short drive through the Northland hillsides, our crew caravan drove one by one through a gate, leading us down a windy path home to several dozen sheep.  As we arrived at our destination we were immediately greeted by smiling faces and friendly shakas, welcoming us into their home. These were complete strangers, but as soon as we exchanged our first aloha, we knew we were already friends.  There we stood, thousands of miles away from Hawaiʻi, yet it felt like home.

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Familiar Hawaiian mele filled the air, accentuating the beautiful house decorated with sentimental pieces from Hawaiʻi.  The tables were set out on the lānai, overlooking a breathtaking view of the water.  Peaking over the railing, just below on the lawn, sat a small pile of dirt, about six feet across and perfectly round.  Could it be? Yes, it was an imu, filled with mea ʻai that was specially prepared for our crew.

Our captains and crewmembers all pitched in, shoveling the dirt away, peeling off the steaming burlap bags, and letting the aroma of white smoke escape into the air.  Beneath that was a pile of banana leaves, blanketing our meal for the evening: kumara (ʻuala), chicken, and pork.  Our hosts were more than pleased to have us their to help, as many of us had done this time and time again.

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Our meal was a mix of local favorites and Hawaiian home cooking.  Among the kālua pig and sweet potatoes, were kai moana (ʻai o ka moana) from these waters: clams, mussels and smoked fish.  As the sun lowered and the plates emptied, we moved inside for an impromptu kanikapila.

As we sat and began to play, I was immensely grateful to be surrounded by some of the greatest voyagers that ever set foot on the waʻa.  These are the greats: the captains and the navigators, the pioneers and the legends.  Billy Richards, Dennis Chun, ʻŌnohi Paishon, Pōmai Bertelmann, just to name a few.

IMG_0015The best parts of it all were not so much the songs, but the stories that were shared in between, about what those mele meant and the memories behind them.

No matter what walk of life we come from, and wherever we live now, those who call Hawaiʻi home will always come together like ʻohana, sharing food, stories, and music.  Thousands of miles away, we found a home away from home.


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