November 15: caught the scent of the islands, picking up speed for home
November 15, Sunrise:
This morning, we are speeding up, at 10 knots, with the jib and mizzen full open and a single reef in the main. It seems like Hikianalia has caught the scent of the islands and is flying home.
Yesterday and last night, the squally, rainy weather continued.
Last night, the lucky 10 pm to 2 am watch had their first dry watch in 3 days. They were all decked out in foul-weather gear, ready for the downpours, but none came. The other two watches got full use out of their rain gear. Beautiful, consistent winds blew out of the east-northeast at 15-20 knots all night. Unfortunately, 100% cloud cover remained for all watches, with only a few stars spotted briefly, including Makali’i (Pleiades), A’ā (Sirius), Hōkūlei (Capella), and the planet Jupiter.
One poor mālolo (flying fish) that flew onto our deck and flopped around was quickly returned to the sea. Tiny bioluminescent life continues to glitter in each breaking wave and along the hulls as we move through the water. Finally, we say aloha, ā hui hou to the glowing jellyfish-like creatures (that lit up as they bumped off our hulls last night) since they were nowhere to be found tonight.
- course: west of North, heading 343 degrees True (Nā Leo Ho’olua)
- speed: 10 knots
- weather: complete cumulus overcast. No clear patches. No high- or mid-level clouds visible through the lower level. Frequent rain, very humid.
- wind: northeast, 20 knots gusting to 25 knots
- sea state: northeast 6 to 8 feet predominant, north-northeast 4 to 5 feet, (NE and NNE sometimes “stack up” to make impressive “speed bumps”, southeast 4 to 5 feet. Wind waves and chop.
Hawaiian Star Compass (Click on the link for an explanation of the names of the directional houses of the compass. Click on the compass for a larger image.)
Crew View: Hiapo
Aloha Kākou
Today we made “da big turn” from about a 10 degree heading to 350 derees, which gets us heading almost directly home. Everyone is looking forward to getting home and getting excited as we get closer to Hilo Bay — talking about all the different foods they are going to eat when they get to land. I’m just looking forward to eating a home-cooked meal at Kuhio grill.
The other day I was surprised to wake up and find more than half the crew up before 5 am. I’m on the 6 to 10 shift watch with Maka, Mike, Nikki, and Keli, our cook. Some may say we have the easiest shift because our hours are closer to a normal sleeping pattern than the 10 to 2 or the 2 to 6 shift. We also get to use the sun at daybreak to navigate. It’s more accurate to use the sun between sunrise and about 10ish in the morning and to check your position and wave and wind patterns. I say we’re just blessed to see the sun rise and set, two of the gifts ke akua blesses us with every day. During breakfast this morning we were entertained with Boobies diving after hundreds of malolo (flying fish) for hours, which was good for Saki since she was trying to make herself stay awake for 24 hours straight as part of her navigator’s training.
I have been trying to invent new games to play to pass the time. Using Saki’s book with only a picture of a moose on it, and all in Japanese, we tried to guess what the book was about. Since it is makahiki time, this led to a riddle game that ‘Onohi won. We have been playing an “A to Z” game, which we played with my crews from the Pacific Voyagers that test your trivia knowledge. When you have some of the oldest crew members playing with some of the younger crewmembers, I had to become mediator in topics of music and movies. The older players were naming songs and shows from the ʻ60s and ʻ70s. The younger one didn’t know their answers, and the younger players named shows and songs from the ’90s and 2000s that the older ones didn’t know. I had to let both groups know whose answers were true — too funny.
We started off this second leg with Kaleo reminding us we are traveling in the same route, wind and waters that our ancestors traveled. Remembering oli of Pele’s voyage from Kahiki to Hawai’i makes this experience even more grounded for me. I have to say that this is the best voyage and crew I have ever been with, both first and second legs. Everyone here brings his or her mana to Hikianalia. Their backgrounds, stories and ʻike. The conversations and knowledge shared have been awesome.
This will be a very special voyage for me. This is the first time someone in my ʻohana since my Kupuna kāne lima sailed to the Hilo coast with his ship “Primo” – we’re talking nine generations ago! It will be a very special way to finish at home after over a year of voyaging with the Pacific Voyagers, then on the tall ship The Lady Washington, then back to the Pacific Voyagers, and finally working on Hikianalia and then sailing her maiden voyage.
So many people to mahalo for supporting me living my dream. I want to mahalo Dieter Paulmann and the Salthouse Boatbuilders ʻohana for building such a wonderful wa’a for our future. Also, everyone involved in the Pacific Voyagers: the “Admiral” Magnus Danbolt, Dunc, John Misky, Nick Henry, Murray Bright, Kalei, Tua Pittman, Hoturoa Kerr, Frankie Kane and Liam Ogen. Jordan Martin ʻohana and Keliʻi and Raime Keanaaina for taking care of my cars. My friends and ʻohana, you keep me going and keep me grounded. A very special mahalo to Nainoa for inviting me and to Bruce for having me aboard. Words cannot express my feelings and emotions related to your making this special life event possible. It has been a privilege and an honor to represent and to be a part of Hikianalia. Maka, Kealoha, and Mike — Da NZ crew. ‘Onohi and Bob for all your ʻike. All my crews and schools following us.
I want to share with you a prayer that has been close to me the whole voyage:
“E Ka Moana Nui”
E ka moana nui
Ka hohonu
E lana malie kai mau ale
E ka makani nui Ikaika
E pa ko lonahe malie oe
E nihi e ka hele
Mai hoopa
E hooma kau kau I ka ala I kauhale o ko kakou mau kapuna
Amama ua noa lele wale alu la
O thou great ocean
Thou deep sea
Let thy waves flow gently
O thou strong winds blowing
Breathe softly and tenderly
Go thou with serenity and peace
Let nothing arise to bar your way
Pave the way to the home of our ancestors
Take care. God bless.
Hiapomalulani “Hiapo” Elderts
(See Hikianalia Crew List: Aotearoa to Tahiti for more about Hiapo.)
Nov. 14, Sunrise: squalls; Rain, rain, rain!
The beneficial northeast trade winds continue, but it is clear that we are not completely through the Inter-tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ). There are “holes” in the wind, squalls that intensify and swirl the wind into different directions and plenty of rain. Luckily the prevailing wind has us moving in the right direction almost as fast as we would like to go.
Last night, the ship identifier helped us safely pass within two nautical miles of a large cargo ship. From her name, we were destined to meet her at sea – it was something very close to “Hoku Tsua You Shaka”. We had a nice radio conversation with their officer on deck, who closed by wishing us, “Have a nice day.”
- course: west of North, heading 340 degrees True (Nā Leo Ho’olua)
- speed: 4 knots
- weather: Complete cumulus overcast (8/8 coverage). No clear patches. No high- or mid-level clouds visible through the lower level. Constant rain, making it very humid and limiting visibility to less than a mile.
- wind: northeast, 25 knots gusting to 30 knots sea state: East 6 to 8 feet predominant, northeast 4 to 5 feet, southeast 4 to 5 feet. Wind waves and chop.
Celestial Observations, Navigation Stars, Planets and Moon Phases
adobe cs6 download mac
6 pm to 10 pm watch – Our watch had only a few steering stars to the north and northeast – Jupiter, Iwakeli’i (Cassiopeia), Makali’i (Pleiades); and the stars of Ke Ka O Makali’i (Orion). We even had Hoku Pa’a (Polaris, the North Star) toward the end of our watch. We sailed on a single reefed mizzen, double reefed main, and single reefed jib tonight because of the on and off squally conditions.
10 pm to 2 am watch – We had about 75% cloud cover for most of the night, and even the stars that did peek through were veiled by a misty haze. It was a slow night at about 4-5 knots.
2 am to 6 am watch – Rain, rain, rain! Extremely shifty winds due to many squalls. No stars to steer by so we steered mainly by using the “telltales”. Telltales are streamers of light material that are attached to several shrouds (rigging that holds up the mast). They stream with the wind and show the direction of the wind relative to the heading of the canoe. You can steer by keeping the angle of the telltales constant when you have no other clues. It was so dark; we rigged a headlamp to shine on the telltales.
Hawaiian Star Compass (Click on the link for an explanation of the names of the directional houses of the compass. Click on the compass for a larger image.)
Crew View: Brenda
These are The Doldrums?
Yesterday morning (Nov. 12) as the sun rose, ʻOnohi observed, “These look like the doldrums, but there is wind!” We were lucky to have steady winds in the morning, which then died down through the day. By afternoon we were constantly jibing and changing sails to try to stay on course. Rain showers would come and go, and were visible on the horizon, no matter which way you looked. Okay, this is what we expected.
Then came evening. The winds started howling and gusting and worked themselves into a bit of a frenzy. By 9 pm it was pretty obvious that we were in for quite a night. Within the next hour, as we were seeing 14 and 15 knot boat speeds, the call came from our captain to lower the sails. The hoe was tied down, the sails dropped, and we proceeded to drift through the night. A solid swell was hitting on our starboard beam, pushing us west. Rain pelted us off and on, followed by times of clearing, when we could see the stars in different segments of sky. It was actually interesting to see patches of stars and try to guess our course. We’ve become so accustomed to where they are at different times of the night, we found that we usually knew our heading. Too bad there wasn’t anything we could do about it!
By sunrise this morning (Nov. 13), the gusting had decreased, and we were able to start putting sails back up and adjusting our course. While we were pushed ten miles west, we luckily did not lose much to the south. Through the day today, we have had strong trade winds from the northeast. We are back on a good course to Hilo. We still have reefs in all our sails, but are keeping a steady 8 knots. The seas are getting larger, and trade swell from the northeast is building and hitting on our
starboard, soaking the deck periodically. We are getting bucked around in our bunks quite a bit!
We are still only at 8 degrees north, so are not out of the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone. We are prepared for the wind to change again, but are hoping that these trade winds will stay with us for the rest of our journey. I think we are all looking forward to getting to Hilo and seeing our families. Crew members are starting to talk about things they might want to eat that we don’t have onboard – ice cream is heading the list. We also will all appreciate a nice dry bed as nothing really
dries out when it is washed in salt water (us or our clothes!)
Aloha from the ITCZ,
Brenda
November 13, Sunset: out of the doldrums, into the NE trades? Caught a mahimahi …
We hope that we have cleared the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) as we have had strong northeasterly winds all day. But, as our friend and weather advisor, Hans Rosendal, told us today, “Your fresh North East winds this morning may mean that you are through the worst of it. However, these stronger trade winds may just be temporary. We cannot tell for sure. The ITCZ fluctuates, at times very strongly, moving South for a while and then North … or redeveloping in a new area altogether. In any event, there is a break in the activity to your North. So, perhaps you somehow got through the ITCZ?”
So far, so good. Today, we made 91 nautical miles between 6 am and 6 pm on the exact heading we were trying to hold, so we had a great day. Hoping for more of the same tonight, tomorrow and the next few days into Hilo. Everyone and everything wet but well and happy.
Caught a mahimahi, the first one on this sail from Tahiti to Hawai‘i.
- course: west of north, heading 346 degrees True, Haka Ho’olua
- weather: Almost complete cumulus overcast (7/8 coverage). A few clear patches. Some wind-torn, mackarel mid-level clouds. Every kind of mid- and high-level clouds stacking up – very interesting stuff, this ITCZ! Rain showers throughout the day, sometimes very hard. Raining extremely hard right now.
- wind: northeast 25 knots
- sea state: East 6 to 8 feet predominant, northeast 4 to 5 feet, southeast 4 to 5 feet. Wind waves and chop.
Hawaiian Star Compass (Click on the link for an explanation of the names of the directional houses of the compass. Click on the compass for a larger image.)
Crew View: Mark
Aloha everyone…
We are currently in the doldrums (dull drums), moving about 3 – 4 kts. We are happy that we do have some winds, but it can be really hard to keep the desired course set by the Captain as the winds are constantly shifting from one direction to another direction. It is currently very hot, with very light winds. We see signs of rain all around us. At times I can’t wait for the rains to come and cool us down, but then once we get rained on, I’m hoping for the sun to come out and warm us up.
Unless you’re on watch, most of the crew is looking for what shade we have. Several crewmembers are sleeping, while others are sitting around playing music and others just talking story trying to pass the time. We currently don’t have any fishing lines out, but we are seeing a lot of flying fishes all around. It’s pretty cool to see about 75 small malolo take off in flight as Hikianalia makes her way down a swell.
I am truly grateful for this opportunity given to me and even more grateful for the love and support of my ʻOhana (Wife and 4 Keiki, Mother, Father, Brothers, Sisters and extended ʻOhana) and my employer and co- workers for supporting me as I experience and follow the path that our Kūpuna have taken before me. It truly takes an Ahupuaʻa to voyage.
Mahalo piha,
Mark Ellis
November 13, Sunrise: Intense Squall Last Night, Closed Sails for Safety, Everyone Doing Fine
November 13, Sunrise:
Last night, at 10 pm, we encountered a sudden, intense squall that caused us to close all sails and drift under bare poles the rest of the evening. Captain Bob Perkins estimated wind speeds in the squall at 50 knots. It was “all hands on deck” to get the sails closed and the crew performed very well and safely under demanding, “no-notice” conditions. We drifted west 10.5 nautical miles during the eight hours we were hove to, an average of 1.3 knots. This morning, we have resumed our course of 340 degrees True (Nā Leo Ho’olua) under reefed working jib, double-reefed main and double-reefed mizzen – the smallest sail set we can fly without closing sails. Everyone is fine and did well in this terrific – if wet – training opportunity.
- weather: Almost complete cumulous overcast (7/8 coverage). A few clear patches. Some wind-torn, mackerel mid-level clouds. No high clouds visible. Rain nearby, humid.
- wind: northeast 25 knots
- sea state: East 6 to 8 feet predominant, northeast 4 to 5 feet, southeast 4 to 5 feet. Wind waves and chop.
- vessel and crew condition: all ok
Celestial Observations, Navigation Stars, Planets and Moon Phases
6 pm to 10 pm watch – Our watch had no steering stars. Our heading at the beginning of the shift was Nālani Ho’olua (340 degrees True, west of North). We were moving slowly in light airs, which then began to shift around forcing us to sail a course of 270 degrees True. As we prepared to tack, the winds again allowed us to resume our heading of 340 degrees True. Then, the squall described below struck suddenly and we closed all the sails.
10 pm to 2 am and 2 am to 6 am watches: drifted, hove to, under bare poles until 6 am.
Hawaiian Star Compass (Click on the link for an explanation of the names of the directional houses of the compass. Click on the compass for a larger image.)
November 12, Sunset: Doldrum Conditions, Slow Going
November 12, Sunset:
A slow day due to light winds in the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ).
Our weather forecaster, Hans Rosendal, informs us that the light, but steady, winds we enjoyed yesterday were due to the ITCZ moving northward, but we would catch up to the doldrum conditions, and we have. In order to speed our delivery of Hikianalia, we turned on one of our two solar-powered electric motors at 11 am. Even with the motor, we only made 50 nautical miles between 6 a.m. and 6 pm, averaging a little over 4 knots. We will run the starboard motor until that battery bank is down to 50% state of charge, then switch to the port motor and do the same to the port batteries. Then, we hope to recharge the batteries using the solar panels tomorrow and the day after. The crew is safe and well and Hikianalia continues to perform very well in every regard.
- course: west of north, heading 355 degrees True, Haka Ho’olua. Fluky winds are forcing us slightly east of north, trying for 10 degrees True, Haka Ko’olau.
- speed: 4 to 5 knots, assisted by one of the two electric motors
- wind: East of South, 5 knots, higher near and in passing squalls
- sea state: Southeast 4 to 5 , well developed
- Sea Birds and Sea Life: the usual terns and boobies, often diving for malolo, which are plentiful. Did not fish today.
For Complete Sail and Education Data, see the Tracking Map.
Hawaiian Star Compass (Click on the link for an explanation of the names of the directional houses of the compass. Click on the compass for a larger image.)
November 13, Sunrise (Forthcoming)
Celestial Observations, Navigation Stars, Planets and Moon Phases (See Hawaiian Star Lines for star names and configurations.)
10 pm to 2 am watch –
2 am to 6 am watch–